Woven interlining is crucial in garment construction, providing structure, durability, and aesthetic refinement to various clothing items. Whether you’re crafting tailored jackets, dresses, or shirts, woven interlining enhances the garment’s shape, strength, and comfort. Applying it correctly ensures that your garments maintain their form and finish over time.

This comprehensive guide explores everything you need about woven interlining, including its types, applications, techniques, and best practices for achieving professional results.

 

Woven interlining is a fabric made from woven threads designed to be applied between layers of fabric in garment construction. Unlike non-woven or knitted interlining, woven interlining offers a stronger, more structured feel due to its woven construction.

Key Characteristics

• Durability: Woven interlining is robust and resists tearing or fraying.
• Flexibility: While providing structure, it also offers some flexibility, allowing for comfortable movement.
• Versatility: Available in various weights and finishes to suit different garment needs.
• Compatibility: Ideal for high-quality garments such as suits, coats, and dresses.

Types of Woven Interlining

• Fusible Woven Interlining: An adhesive coating on one side bonds to the fabric when heated.
• Sew-in Woven Interlining: Requires stitching to attach to the garment, offering more control over placement.
• Double-Sided Fusible: Bonds two fabric layers together, ideal for collars and cuffs.

Preparing for Woven Interlining Application

Selecting the Right Interlining

1. Fabric Type: Match the interlining weight and texture to the garment fabric. For example, lightweight interlining is used for silk, and heavier interlining is used for wool.
2. Purpose: Choose interlining based on the garment section—light interlining for linings and stiffer options for collars and cuffs.
3. Finish: Consider factors like shrink resistance, breathability, and ease of care.

Tools and Materials Required

• Woven interlining fabric.
• Garment fabric.
• Iron or heat press (for fusible interlining).
• Scissors or rotary cutter.
• Sewing machine (for sew-in interlining).
• Chalk or fabric marker for marking.
• Pins or fabric clips for securing.

Pre-Washing and Testing

• Pre-shrink: Wash or steam interlining and fabric before application to prevent shrinkage post-construction.
• Test Bonding: Always test a small piece of fusible interlining on scrap fabric to ensure compatibility.

Applying Fusible Woven Interlining

Fusible woven interlining is popular for its ease of use and time-saving properties. Here’s a step-by-step guide to applying it:

Step 1: Cut the Interlining

• Cut the interlining slightly smaller than the fabric piece to avoid adhesive sticking to your iron or sewing machine.

Step 2: Position the Interlining

• Place the adhesive side of the interlining against the wrong side of the fabric. Ensure there are no wrinkles or creases.

Step 3: Ironing Technique

• Use a dry iron (no steam) set to the recommended temperature for your interlining.
• Press the iron down for 8–12 seconds without moving it around to allow the adhesive to bond evenly.
• Work systematically across the fabric, overlapping sections slightly to ensure full adhesion.

Step 4: Cooling

• Let the bonded fabric cool completely before handling to set the adhesive properly.

Applying Sew-In Woven Interlining

Sew-in interlining offers precision and flexibility, ideal for intricate garment designs.

Step 1: Cut the Interlining

• Cut the interlining pieces to match the garment pattern exactly, as they will be sewn into the seams.

Step 2: Position and Secure

• Align the interlining with the wrong side of the fabric. Use pins or fabric clips to secure the layers.

Step 3: Stitching

• Sew the interlining to the fabric using a straight stitch, staying within the seam allowance to prevent visible stitching lines.

Step 4: Final Assembly

• Incorporate the interlined fabric pieces into your garment construction per your pattern instructions.

Specialized Applications of Woven Interlining

Collars and Cuffs

• Use heavier woven interlining for crispness and durability.
• Double-sided fusible interlining works well for a clean finish.

Jackets and Coats

• Apply woven interlining to areas like lapels, fronts, and hemlines for added structure.
• Layer interlining in thicker garments to enhance warmth and durability.

Shirts

• Lightweight woven interlining maintains the natural drape of shirting fabric while adding subtle support.

Dresses and Gowns

• Use lightweight interlining to enhance fabric stability without compromising on flow and movement.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Uneven Adhesion

• Problem: Parts of the interlining peel away after fusing.
• Solution: Ensure heat and pressure are even during the application process. Use a pressing cloth for better heat distribution.

Wrinkles or Bubbles

• Problem: Fabric appears puckered after fusing.
• Solution: Avoid steam, and smooth out the fabric before ironing.

Visible Interlining

• Problem: Interlining is visible through the fabric.
• Solution: Choose a lighter weight or color-matched interlining for sheer fabrics.

Tips for Professional Results

• Use a Pressing Cloth: This prevents scorching and protects delicate fabrics.
• Work Systematically: Fuse or sew interlining in small sections for better control.
• Choose Quality Materials: High-quality interlining ensures durability and a professional finish.
• Practice: Test on scrap materials to perfect your technique before working on your garment.

Benefits of Using Woven Interlining in Garments

• Enhanced Shape and Structure: Provides a polished, tailored appearance.
• Improved Durability: Strengthens garments to withstand wear and tear.
• Versatility: Suitable for various fabric types and garment sections.
• Professional Finish: Creates a high-quality look and feel.

Woven Interlining vs. Other Types

• Feature Woven Interlining Non-Woven Interlining Knitted Interlining
• Strength High Moderate Moderate
• Flexibility Moderate Low High
• Durability Excellent Decent Good
• Application Tailored garments Everyday wear Stretch fabrics

Future Trends in Woven Interlining

• Eco-Friendly Interlining: Manufacturers are producing biodegradable and recycled options.
• Smart Interlining: Innovations include temperature-regulating or moisture-wicking properties.
• Customization: Tailored interlining options for specific garments and fabrics.

Woven interlining is vital in garment construction, enhancing functionality and aesthetics. By understanding its characteristics, choosing the right type, and following proper application techniques, you can create garments with a professional finish that stands the test of time. Whether you’re a seasoned sailor or a beginner, mastering woven interlining opens up endless possibilities in fashion design.