Interlining plays a crucial yet often overlooked role in the construction of garments. It is a layer of fabric sewn or fused between the outer fabric and the lining of a garment, primarily to provide structure, support, and shape. This hidden component significantly influences how clothing fits, feels, and performs over time. Whether it’s a suit jacket, a shirt collar, or a tailored dress, interlining gives these garments their polished and refined appearance. In this blog, we will explore the various types of interlining, how they affect the Fit and feel of clothing and their importance in the fashion industry.

Understanding Interlining: An Overview

Interlining is a textile layer used in various clothing parts, including collars, cuffs, waistbands, and lapels, to reinforce and provide structure. It’s available in different types and materials, depending on the garment’s purpose and the desired look and feel. There are two main categories of interlining:

• Sew-in Interlining: This type is sewn between the garment’s fabric layers and provides a more natural look. It’s often used in high-end tailoring where precise shaping is required.
• Fusible Interlining: Fusible interlining has a resin coating that melts when heated, fusing the interlining to the fabric. It’s faster and more cost-effective than sew-in interlining and is commonly used in mass-produced clothing.

Interlining fabrics can be made from various materials, including cotton, polyester, wool, and silk. Each type of material has specific characteristics that influence the Fit and feel of the clothing.

The Role of Interlining in Garment Construction

Interlining serves multiple purposes in garment construction, impacting Fit, comfort, and Durability. Here are some of the critical functions of interlining:

1)   Providing Structure and Shape

One of the primary functions of interlining is to provide structure to garments. In tailored clothing, such as suits, jackets, and blazers, interlining helps maintain the garment’s shape over time. It ensures that lapels, collars, and cuffs retain their crisp appearance, even after repeated wear. Without interlining, these garment parts would lose their shape and sag.

For example, in men’s suits, interlining is used in the chest area, lapels, and shoulders to provide structure and a defined silhouette. This is especially important in formal wear, where a sharp, tailored look is essential.

2)   Enhancing Durability

Interlining also enhances garment Durability by providing additional support to areas that experience frequent movement and wear, such as collars, cuffs, and waistbands. It helps prevent the fabric from stretching out of shape, fraying, or tearing, thus extending the garment’s life. This is particularly important in shirts and blouses, where collars and cuffs undergo constant stress.

3)   Improving Fit

Interlining plays a significant role in how a garment fits on the body. By adding structure and support, interlining ensures that garments fit smoothly and maintain their shape over time. For example, interlining helps create a smooth, contoured fit that flatters the body in tailored garments. It prevents sagging, bunching, and wrinkling, ensuring a polished and professional appearance.

In women’s clothing, interlining is often used in structured dresses and blouses to create a more defined silhouette. It helps the garment conform to the body’s natural curves, providing a better fit.

4)   Adding Warmth and Comfort

Interlining can also provide additional warmth and insulation in cold-weather clothing. Interlining made from wool or synthetic fibres like polyester can add a layer of insulation between the outer fabric and the lining, making the garment warmer and more comfortable to wear in colder climates. This is commonly used in coats, jackets, and outerwear.

How Interlining Affects the Fit of Clothing

The Fit of a garment is one of the most important factors influencing how it looks and feels on the body. Interlining can significantly impact the Fit of clothing by providing structure, support, and stability. Here’s how:

1)   Maintaining the Shape of Collars and Cuffs

Interlining is often used in collars and cuffs of shirts and blouses to maintain their shape and prevent them from becoming floppy or misshapen. Collars and cuffs can retain their crispness by interlining, resulting in a more polished look. A well-constructed collar with interlining provides a clean, sharp appearance that enhances the overall Fit of the shirt.

2)   Improving the Fit of Waistbands and Hems

In skirts, trousers, and dresses, interlining is often used in waistbands and hems to improve the Fit and provide support. An interlocking waistband maintains its shape and prevents stretching, ensuring a better fit around the waist. Similarly, interlining in hems helps prevent the fabric from puckering or curling, ensuring the garment hangs smoothly and fits well.

3)   Contouring the Garment to the body

Interlining is essential in tailored garments, such as blazers, jackets, and coats, to create a contoured fit that flatters the body’s shape. By adding structure to the shoulders, chest, and back, interlining helps the garment conform to the body’s natural curves, providing a better fit. This is especially important in formal wear, where a smooth, tailored fit is critical to achieving a polished look.

Interlining also helps prevent the garment from sagging or losing shape, ensuring it fits nicely even after repeated wear.

4)   Supporting the Shape of Sleeves

Interlining is often used in the sleeves of tailored jackets and coats to provide structure and support. It helps maintain the sleeve’s shape, ensuring that it fits smoothly around the arm and doesn’t become baggy or misshapen. This is especially important in garments with structured shoulders, where the Fit of the sleeves is crucial to achieving a balanced silhouette.

How Interlining Affects the Feel of Clothing

In addition to influencing the Fit of a garment, interlining also affects how the clothing feels when worn. The interlining and placement can impact the garment’s comfort, weight, and overall feel. Here’s how:

1)   Adding Weight and Thickness

One of the most noticeable effects of interlining is that it adds weight and thickness to a garment. This can be beneficial in certain types of clothing, such as coats and jackets, where added weight and thickness provide warmth and a sense of quality. However, in lighter garments like shirts and blouses, excessive interlining can make the garment feel heavy or bulky, reducing comfort.

The key to achieving the right balance is selecting the appropriate type of interlining for the garment. A thin, lightweight interlining is often used for lightweight fabrics to provide structure without adding too much bulk. In contrast, a thicker interlining may be needed for heavy fabrics to give the necessary support.

2)   Affecting Flexibility and Movement

Interlining can also affect a garment’s flexibility and movement. In structured garments like tailored jackets and coats, interlining adds stiffness and support, limiting the garment’s flexibility. This is often desirable in formal wear, where a structured, polished look is important.

However, too much stiffness can reduce comfort and restrict movement in casual or lightweight clothing. For example, in a lightweight blouse, a stiff interlining in the collar or cuffs may feel uncomfortable and limit the garment’s flexibility. In such cases, a softer, more flexible interlining is often used to provide structure without sacrificing comfort.

3)   Enhancing Comfort in Cold-Weather Garments

Interlining can significantly enhance comfort in cold-weather garments by providing additional warmth and insulation. For example, interlining made from wool or synthetic fibres in coats and jackets can add a layer of insulation, making the garment warmer and more comfortable to wear in cold climates.

In addition to providing warmth, interlining in cold-weather garments also helps prevent the outer fabric from becoming stiff or uncomfortable in cold temperatures. By adding a layer of softness and insulation, interlining ensures that the garment remains comfortable, even in harsh weather conditions.

4)   Improving the Drape of the Fabric

The drape of a garment refers to how the fabric hangs and moves when worn. Interlining can significantly impact the drape of a garment, especially in tailored clothing. By adding structure and support to certain areas, interlining ensures that the fabric hangs smoothly and maintains its shape.

For example, interlining in the lapels and shoulders in a tailored jacket helps create a smooth, structured drape that enhances the garment’s overall fit and appearance. Similarly, in a skirt or dress, interlining in the hem ensures that the fabric hangs evenly and doesn’t become misshapen.

Choosing the Right Interlining for Different Garments

Selecting the correct type of interlining is essential for achieving a garment’s desired Fit, feel, and performance. The choice of interlining depends on several factors, including the type of fabric, the garment’s intended use, and the desired level of structure and support. Here are some guidelines for choosing the right interlining for different types of garments:

1)   For Tailored Garments

Interlining is essential in tailored garments like suits, blazers, and coats for providing structure and a sharp, polished appearance. A heavier, more structured interlining is often used to support the shoulders, chest, and lapels. Wool or polyester-based interlining is commonly used in tailored clothing for its Durability and ability to hold shape.

2)   For Lightweight Garments

In lightweight garments like shirts, blouses, and dresses, a thinner, more flexible interlining is often used to provide structure without adding too much bulk or stiffness. Cotton or silk interlining is commonly used in lightweight garments for its softness and breathability. Fusible interlining is often preferred for its ease of use and ability to create a smooth, seamless finish.

3)   For Cold-Weather Garments

Interlining plays a crucial role in providing warmth and insulation in cold-weather garments like coats and jackets. A thicker interlining made from wool or synthetic fibers is often used to add warmth without sacrificing comfort. Additionally, a soft, flexible interlining is often preferred to enhance comfort and prevent stiffness.

Interlining is a vital component in garment construction that significantly affects the Fit, feel, and overall performance of clothing. Whether it’s providing structure in tailored garments, enhancing Durability in frequently worn areas, or improving the comfort and warmth of cold-weather clothing, interlining is crucial in ensuring that garments look and feel their best.

By selecting the correct type of interlining for each garment, designers and manufacturers can create clothing that looks great, fits well, and feels comfortable to wear. In an industry where the Fit and feel of apparel are paramount, interlining is essential for achieving high-quality, well-constructed garments.